Chanel’s TikTok challenge | BoF


This week, Chanel made headlines for all the wrong reasons.

The French mega-label organized its last Métiers d’Art showcase in Paris on Tuesday. But by far the hottest topic was TikTok influencer Elise Harmon’s video series slamming the company over an $ 825 Advent calendar containing what she and many of her followers considered articles to be. disappointing, like a dust bag and miniaturized cosmetics.

“I’m pretty sure that’s enough cream for my left arm,” she said in one of the videos, pinching a tiny jar of body cream between her icy fingers. in acrylic. As of Friday, the posts had been viewed more than 54 million times.

Chanel’s public relations strategy was to play the coolies, fending off criticism. Fashion firm president Bruno Pavlovsky called the episode a “regrettable misunderstanding”, suggesting that the calendar’s real value lay not in its contents but in its “unique and remarkable” scent box.

A misunderstanding, perhaps, but one that underscores a wider disconnect between luxury brands and the increasingly powerful TikTok.

The platform is evolving rapidly, with videos that capture users’ attention only for a brief period, and Chanel has a strong brand, so the incident may end soon. However, it is not over yet. The vitriol has spread to other platforms and users are still raging. “Maybe I can have some fashion scraps on next year’s advent calendar :),” Instagram user @henriebrooke sniffed under a recent Chanel post featuring director Sofia Coppola.

It doesn’t help that Chanel is inactive on TikTok, which means there are missing opportunities to populate the platform with more positive messages. But traditional branded content doesn’t work as well with TikTok users as a raw material. And Chanel is by no means alone in its cautious approach to a platform that many luxury peers see as a gross denominator, the least common, and ultimately difficult context for their tightly-managed images.

And yet TikTok’s influence has only grown, especially with Gen Z customers who drive a growing share of luxury sales. Luxury brands need to figure out how to make the platform work for them, even if they don’t have full control of it.

Some engage TikTok influencers through giveaways. It’s a beginning. However, they need to go further and imagine new ways to embed positive stories about their brands within the platform, taking into account very specific formats that work best, beauty tutorials, and sync bits. lip service to community “challenges” and sound-oriented clips.

The #PradaBucketChallenge, for example, has generated more than 8 billion views since its launch in October. TikTok star Tinx’s “Rich Mom Starter Pack: Brentwood Edition” featured an ironic appearance by Gwyneth Paltrow, whose Goop brand embodies the lifestyle the creator both embodies and mocks. The post has generated over 325,000 views, while most of Goop’s Instagram videos have fewer than 50,000.

To deliver this kind of success, brands have to experiment. For its recent Métiers d’Art showcase, for example, Chanel could have published clips as simple as models preparing behind the scenes. (The #gettingready hashtag has over 560 million views.) Or, the brand could have leveraged users’ love for ASMR, by posting a TikTok of a demo the brand hosted during the Métiers d’Art event featuring a craftsman from the Lemarié workshop belonging to Chanel. cut feathers into petals, sew them in flowers then arrange them in trompe l’oeil on a dress.

For decades, luxury brands have relied on consumers to drive sales of entry-level products like lipsticks and high-volume perfumes. The halo of parades and airbrushed advertising campaigns may have already been enough to make luxury brands shine in the eyes of these buyers. Brands whose perception is increasingly influenced by TikTok, luxury houses must get involved or be left behind.

NEWS IN BRIEF

FASHION, BUSINESS AND ECONOMY

Private equity firm L Catterton has set a fundraising goal of $ 7.8 billion. The LVMH-backed company is offering a buyout fund – which would finance deals in which the company takes a controlling stake in a business – to investors, hoping to raise $ 6.5 billion, The Wall Street Journal reported.

Rent the Runway falls after projecting below-estimate sales. The clothing rental brand slipped late in the session after posting a revenue projection that was lower than estimated in its first quarterly results since its IPO.

Farfetch plans to expand resale with the acquisition of Luxclusif. The deal will strengthen Farfetch’s range of white-label services for industry customers, as the e-commerce giant aims to “truly own the category and the opportunity.”

Nike is trying to ban imports of Adidas mesh shoes, accusing it of copying designs. The sportswear giant filed a complaint with the International Trade Commission in Washington on Wednesday, claiming that a wide range of Adidas AG Primeknit shoes copy Nike’s patented inventions for knitted fabrics that reduce waste without losing performance. .

Kim Jones launches her pre-fall 2022 collection for Dior Men in London. The show, which took place at the Olympia Exhibition Center, featured Jones’ latest Dior collection, which is imbued with the spirit of the Beat Generation, especially Jack Kerouac and his landmark novel ‘On the Road’ .

London will skip January Fashion Week as Covid issues loom. The British Fashion Council cited “uncertainties arising from Covid-19” as a reason for not holding an official event next month. In 2022, the BFC will host three Mixed Fashion Week events, from February 18 to 22; June 11-12; and from September 16 to 20. The format will continue to be a digital-physical hybrid, the BFC said.

Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. announce the latest Nautilus 5711. Earlier this year, Patek Philippe chairman Thierry Stern announced that the company was ditching its most wanted watch. On Tuesday, the two brands unveiled a final version of the model in Tiffany’s signature blue.

The battle for SMCP ownership escalates amid an illegal stake transfer request. On Wednesday, major shareholders claimed that a 16% stake in the French fashion group had been illegally transferred to an offshore account. A meeting to force a board reshuffle has been called for next month.

Billionaire-backed FabIndia is seeking $ 500 million in IPO. The clothing and furniture retailer plans to file preliminary documents for an offer of up to $ 500 million, according to people familiar with the matter.

UK retailer Frasers’ earnings jump on strong reopening after the lockdown. The British sportswear and fashion group has announced a 61.7% increase in its basic profits in the first half of the year, as the brand pursues a strategy of “uplifting” to move its business upmarket.

THE BEAUTY AFFAIR

Nestlé reduces L'Oréal's stake with a sale of $ 10 billion.

Nestlé reduces L’Oréal’s stake with a sale of $ 10 billion. Nestlé SA announced on Tuesday that it would reduce its stake in L’Oréal to around 20% by reselling shares worth € 8.9 billion ($ 10 billion) to the French cosmetics brand, in order to reduce the weight of the beauty giant in his books for the first time in seven years.

Launch of Humanrace by Pharrell Williams on the Dover Street fragrance market. The skincare label will sell its rice powder cleanser, lotus enzyme scrub, moisturizer, body bars and ceramic dishes, as well as product refills, up front. – Parisian post at Dover Street Parfums Market (DSPM), which Williams calls “the kingdom of fashion.” “

PEOPLE

Siddhartha Shukla, the new Deputy Managing Director of Lanvin.

Lanvin entrusts Siddhartha Shukla, Managing Director of Theory, with the post of Deputy Managing Director. France’s oldest fashion house has appointed Siddhartha Shukla, Marketing Director and Chief Trader of Theory, to be its new Deputy Managing Director. Shukla will report to Brand President Joann Cheng and work alongside Grace Zhao, Deputy Managing Director for Asia.

Alibaba shakes its leadership with its CFO, reshuffle of trade chiefs. The deputy chief financial officer of Chinese e-commerce giant, Toby Xu, is expected to replace its long-time chief financial officer, Maggie Wu, alongside changes in leadership in its business operations. The moves mark Alibaba’s most notable management changes since surviving a deadly antitrust investigation.

Fossil Group appoints senior vice president, general manager of the Fossil brand. Former Neiman Marcus executive Melissa Lowenkron will be responsible for branding, product design and marketing in the newly created role. In turn, Steve Evans, Executive Vice President and Brand Director, will focus on other brands owned and licensed by the Fossil Group, including Diesel, Emporio Armani, DKNY and Puma.

Calvin Klein calls on Pete Davidson for his latest marketing experience. The American sportswear brand, best known for its logo-stamped underwear, has given the comedian access to his Instagram account, changing his profile picture to a photo of the SNL star.

MEDIA AND TECHNOLOGY

SellerX solicits Sofina and BlackRock for funds valued at $ 1 billion.

SellerX solicits Sofina and BlackRock for funds valued at $ 1 billion. The LVMH-backed Berlin-based company, which is acquiring online retailers in hopes of forming a new consumer conglomerate, has raised $ 500 million in new debt and equity financing to buy e-commerce brands and expand its group companies selling products on Amazon. The tour was led by Sofina.

Compiled by Joan Kennedy.


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