Janja Garnbret, Brooke Raboutou on the best climbing gear
Premiere Digital and Windfall Films have unveiled a feature-length climbing documentary titled The Wall – Climbing for Goldwhich features four elite climbers – Brooke Raboutou (USA), Janja Garnbret (Slovenia), Miho Nonaka (Japan) and Shauna Coxsey MBE (Great Britain) – as they climb through the qualifying stages for the first ever Olympic climbing competition.
The 90-minute film, directed by Nick Hardie, follows a demanding season of fierce competition and vigorous training before every athlete’s original path to the Olympics was derailed due to the COVID-19 pandemic. As each climber faces mental and physical battles en route to the next year’s games, the film chronicles both their perseverance in overcoming various obstacles and the enormous pressure that comes with being an Olympian.
While training plays a vital role in every climber’s success, emphasis is also placed on their gear and minor adjustments to both indoor and outdoor climbing. Garnbret, who was a child prodigy and holder of the most world climbing titles, teamed up with adidas Five Ten to create the perfect climbing shoe for competition: the Five Ten Hiangle.
“We put a lot of work into making this shoe perfect, making sure the Stealth rubber sole was just the right softness for competition and making sure the heel was just right,” Garnbret told HYPEBAE. “It’s as if you were wearing nothing at all, with no space or air pockets between the shoe and the foot. When we considered the Hiangle, we needed a super soft shoe to play with volumes (the large three-dimensional shapes on the climbing wall), but rigid enough to stand on extremely small feet.
adidas worked closely with Garnbret to make micro-adjustments to the shoe’s construction, incorporating a “snug heel” so the shoe “fits like a sock,” Garnbret said. “I like my competition shoes to be more flexible, which means I’ve worn them more frequently for breaking in. I prefer stiffer shoes for outdoor climbing, which means, ideally, bringing a pair of newer shoes,” she added.
Similarly, Raboutou, who was one of the XX Games’ youngest competitors at 20, has partnered with adidas Terrex, a subset of the sportswear company known for using GORE-TEX, which provides a waterproof and breathable fabric membrane. to his designs, as well as continental rubber.
“GORE-TEX technology is really important to have as an option for my hiking boots because we often have long snowy approaches to rocks that require very grippy rubber to jump into the rocks as well as the GORE-TEX component that keeps my feet warm and dry,” Raboutou said.
“All of my favorite climbing leggings and tops, as well as running and hiking shoes, feature the brand’s sustainable Primeblue and Primegreen technologies which are made from recycled materials, which is really important to me because I am continually learning how I can be more sustainable and defend our planet,” she added.
With sufficient training and proper competition shoes, Raboutou noted that the biggest challenge she faced when competing at the Olympics had nothing to do with her athleticism, but rather with maintaining a state of fitness. ‘healthy mind.
“What I take away the most from competing at the Olympic level is the importance of focusing on my mental health and on my mental game in general,” said Raboutou. “I started taking time out and working on my mental game for the first time and saw huge improvements in my performance while realizing how much I still have to learn.”
“I hope those watching The wall are inspired,” she added. “I hope they can both understand and identify with us four athletes and realize that progress and success does not come without failure and with many ups and downs along the way.”
The Wall – Climbing for Gold is now available worldwide via Apple TV, Google Play and Amazon Prime Video.